Java Journey

10 days, up and down mountains and volcanoes, multiple train rides, becaks, bikes and enough walking to last a lifetime we've made it back from our first venture into Indonesia.

Feeling slightly adventurous we opted for Java rather than the more traditional tourist trail to Bali (maybe next year). Java is overwhelmingly the cultural, economic and political centre of Indonesia and seemed like the ideal place to get to know one of our nearest neighbours.

The island of Java itself (only one of the17,000-20,000 islands that make up Indonesia) is just smaller than England at around 50,000 square miles - but home to 140 million of Indonesia's nearly 250 million people - that's a population density of 2,700+ people per square mile. 

Largely escaping mass urbanisation and sprawl - something wealthier, more developed countries have struggled with -  Java has somehow maintained a truly beautiful countryside.  With such limited space they've clearly opted to take care of what they have - they also need to farm every spare scrap of land to feed themselves and there are worse things to look at than glistening green rice paddies and terraced hillsides of coffee, onions and cabbages.

Unfortunately the idyllic Java countryside is the exception rather than the rule, Sumatra and Kalimatan (Indonesian Borneo) are experiencing rampant deforestation, pollution and illegal land use. Sumatra reportedly bears great resemblance to Malaysia - one giant oil palm plantation.

In any event, we couldn't help but be thoroughly charmed.  The people are overwhelmingly warm and friendly (yes, a few desperately want you to visit their batik shop) but on the whole they are sincere, inquisitive and welcoming.

The population is 85% Muslim, yet Indonesia is an adamantly secular society (in the 2009 elections the leading Islamist party secured a paltry 8% of the vote).  I would estimate that well under half of women wear headscarves in this part of Indonesia and art (including depictions of human form!), music and dance flourish.

In general the Javanese seem to wear their religion on their sleeve less than other Muslim countries that I've visited - but this is only telling of this particular corner of Java, in Banda Aceh (Sumatra) women are mandated to wear headscarves and alcohol is illegal.

The Javanese are completely comfortable blending their Animist, Buddhist, and Hindu pasts into one - the famed shadow puppets of Java clearly own much to their Hindu roots and belief in black magic and ritual superstitions still run deep (you can pick up a raven to sacrifice at the bird market in any city).

Despite its many charms it's a place with a dark side as well.  Poverty is evident - although there are very few homeless people and beggars and virtually no starving or abandoned children and the per capita GDP is steadily climbing, currently at just under $5,000 a year.

The level of corruption is unforgivable. There was a sign at the customs station at the airport which prohibited 'tipping' of officials.  Indonesia is ranked 100 out of 182 countries on the worldwide corruption index (a significant improvement of about 20 places within the last few years).

On the whole I'd put Indonesia about ten years ahead of India and ten years behind Malaysia - which, as a tourist is just about where I like a country to be - free enough from disease and poverty lurking around every corner but well before the country is transformed into one vast air-conditioned mega-mall.

More on scaling volcanoes, ancient temples and adventures with street food in the next installment.