Back to Borneo

We made our first trip to Sarawak nearly two years ago and now we're going back . . . with my parents in-tow (they'll do fine, really).

To get everyone prepared for our journey, I have been re-reading and insisting that everyone else read Redmond O'Hanlon's book, Into the Heart of Borneo.  This is one of my all time favourite non-fiction books and is essential reading for armchair adventurers and hardened travellers alike.

Redmond, his poet-sidekick James Fenton and their three charming and resourceful Iban guides all set off on an incredible adventure deep into the jungle in search of the Bornean rhinoceros. Pumped full of tuak (native rice wine), arak (a lethally strong rice brandy), hoards of sticky rice and boney river fish they have many (mis)adventures - particularly with the local wildlife, which includes:

• 166 species of snakes: including 2 species or python, 50 venomous snakes including, aggressive sea snakes which have been known to swarm in the thousands, three kinds of cobra, pit vipers and river snakes.  Let's also not forget the flying tree snakes.
• leeches: giant leeches, up to two feet long and tiny leeches that live in rivers and streams only as wide as a thread that patiently wait for you to drink them down so they can feast on you internally.
• mosquitoes. Enough said.

Less scary native species include the elusive clouded leopard, cranky sun bear, big-eyed tarsiers, tiny slow loris, agile gibbons (they can swing from branch to branch for distances of up to 50 ft at speeds up to 35 mph), mighty orang-utans and countless species of birds including the revered hornbill.

Although parts of Borneo are now as developed as anywhere else in Malaysia, deep in the jungle there are still unruly natives prowling about with lethal blowpipes and who were reportedly head-hunters up until the 1960s. Despite ever-increasing development and the devastating destruction of huge swathes of primary rainforest for ever-expanding oil palm plantations, Borneo still possess a slightly wild edge.  It's not New Guinea, but it sure ain't a tourist-packed Thai island either.

We won't be hitting the jungle quite so hard as Redmond and James, but we have every intention of spotting a few orang-utans, visiting a Dayak longhouse, squeezing in a few jungle treks of our own, relaxing on the beach (hopefully without sea snakes!) and no vacation would be complete (especially with Thomas Galli) without a few beverages.  I can't wait to be back in Borneo.

Christmas Island

I have to say that in spite of all the decorations and making Ian crazy with the Nutcracker on repeat in the weeks and days leading up to Christmas, that hot weather at the holidays is just plain weird. I kept trying to reassure myself of the novelty of it all and how I couldn't wait to rub it in to everyone back home that I'd been for a nice long swim in my pool on Christmas day, but the festive feeling was, until the very last minute, lacking entirely. Fortunately, there's nothing like a bottle of white wine at 11:30am and a few gifts to kick things into gear and suddenly it was Christmas.

I get ahead of myself. Taking advantage of Ian's family visit we set off for Pangkor. Pangkor is a small island about halfway between KL & Penang, and despite having heard fairly positive things about it, I was withholding judgement as to how it would rate as a beach destination particularly given its location in the high-traffic and murky waters of the Straits of Malacca.

We arrived well after dark and the first thing that struck me (aside from the carnation pink people-carrier taxis that are driven with wild abandon over the hills and around the curves of the island interior) was a genuinely alarming lack of Chinese people. Now, we've been in Malaysia for exactly 14 months and that is long enough to learn that, where there are Chinese there is beer and no Chinese people = no beer. This would certainly be a sorry way to start off a trip to the beach.

My suspicions were confirmed when there was only one place in the entire village with beer and I do not exaggerate when I say that every, single white person in town was there. Normally, I would avoid this type of place like the plague but it was agreed all-round that after a 6 hour journey involving a long car ride, noisy ferry and high-speed suspension-less taxi ride that the availability of beer trumped all. We had a thoroughly mediocre meal, enjoyed a few ice cold Tigers, took a quick turn about the town, called it a night and prayed for sunshine the following day.

Our prayers were answered, we awoke to a lovely sunny day and afraid that it might end at any moment grabbed our gear and set out for the beach. In a moment of blind excitement we foolishly attempted to cut off a corner of the walk by cutting through a patch of jungle rather than follow the road. We were instantly swarmed, and I mean swarmed, by mosquitoes and quickly came upon a troop of cheeky macaques, we promptly abandoned the trek, located the beach and made for the lovely, clear warm water letting the salt assuage our recently acquired battle scars.


Although limited in cultural exploits, Pangkor does have more to offer in terms of wildlife than macaques and mosquitoes and (with the aid of our fancy new camera lens) we saw our first hornbills in the wild. I'm sure we were also surrounded by any number of poisonous deadly snakes and the sea bed was riddled with exceptionally large slimy sea slugs and spikey sea urchins.

We returned to KL to commence our holiday celebrations. Ian did (finally) get me that beautiful porcelain Chinese lamp - and even condescended to spend an extra $30 on the lampshade. We had a delicious dinner of rosemary encrusted pork loin with with mustard cream sauce, braised leeks and mashed potato - it had nothing on Grandma's prime rib, but it certainly did the trick. Boxing Day we went to Trader's for drinks where (as usual) the service was terrible and the drinks overpriced, but the view is unbeatable.