Bali high?

Bali is small and Bali is crowded. Seriously crowded. 95 miles across at it its widest point and 69 miles long Bali has a population of 4.2 million people. Then throw in all of the tourists. Gah.

Call me a snob, but Bali has never been high on my list of travel destinations. In this part of the world there are so many excellent islands and beaches and as we are so not into clubbing or crowds that Bali generally held little appeal.  There is a lot more to Bali than clubs and crowded beaches but extracting yourself from the tourist hub on arrival is easier said that done.

Anyway, this year we found ourselves in Bali, mostly because it is the only practical gateway to Komodo National Park (which is still another 400 miles east of Bali).  We did our homework and set our sights on northwest Bali - the corner of the island furthest away from the party scene in the southeast.

We are fairly experienced with Asian roads and Asian driving, so given the relatively short distances involved we rented a car (it was hair-raising, even for us).  Our plan was to overnight in Ubud (admittedly one of the most touristy destinations in Bali) but it was on our route and is considered the cultural heart of the island and came to us well recommended.

Maybe my expectations were too high, but Ubud did very little for me.  It struck me as a bit of a tourist trap full to bursting with Eat, Pray, Love types.  Arguably a more irritating crowd than the ravers in the southeast.

We had a thoroughly overpriced and disappointing meal, went to bed and after a brief but pleasant walk around the paddy fields we beat a path out of town the following morning.

Our drive to Pemuteran was long and windy (windy enough for me to get carsick in the front seat). However, I'm pleased to say it was worth the journey, because when we checked in (http://tirtasaribungalow.com) everything suddenly seemed okay again. Note the convenient swim-up bar at the end of the pool. This place also has a fabulous little spa and the rates are unbelievably good.

Pemuteran was fantastic, laid-back and full of other like-minded guests. Another reason for choosing Pemuteran was the reef restoration project that started there in 2000.  Thirteen years in the progress is phenomenal - the fish and the coral are back - an encouraging site to see in a country where 94% of all coral reefs are classed as 'severely damaged'.

Pemuteran is also just a few minutes away from Menjangan Island, a tiny island about 5 miles off the Bali coast with stunning 200 foot drop-offs, making for some of the best diving and snorkeling in Indonesia (if not the world). There is a huge variety of fish, soft and hard corals - by far the best snorkeling I've done to date.  Unfortunately it's a bit crowded with day trippers from the Ubud and the southeast but is still well worth the effort - just don't count on having the reef to yourself.

On the whole Bali was fine, but much like southern Thailand.  If I was going to splash out on one big trip to Asia - Bali wouldn't be my first choice. There is a lot to do and it is very tourist friendly, but in my mind it's a little too tourist friendly.