Monday, 14 July 2014

Travel Rewind: Glamping in North Thailand

Our last six months in Malaysia were pretty frenzied, so I didn't have the chance to blog about a few of our final adventures. Now settled (and unemployed) I've got ample time to retrace our steps. So, in January we squeezed in our fourth and final farewell journey to our northern neighbor, Thailand.

View down to one of the family cabins, from the tallest tree house, Tamarind
As you head north from Chiang Mai towards the Burmese border, you quickly leave behind the dusty plains and climb steadily into lush, green, hilly forests. I've blogged about Chiang Mai previously, and as a major tourist destination (and Thailand's second city) it's no surprise that surrounding hills are increasingly populated with small resorts, home-stays and elephant camps. I like Thailand's beaches and islands (almost) as much as the next guy, but it does make a nice change of scenery from Germans in speedos, if you know what  I mean.

Tamarind House
There's a lot of good stuff in the area, especially if you fancy a few days of peace and quiet. I stumbled upon a place called Rabeang Pasak Tree House Resort. Naturally it was the 'Tree House' part that caught my attention and a bit of research revealed, much to my delight, exactly what I had envisioned in my head - a small, picturesque spot in the hills with Swiss Family Robinson style tree houses.

At the time of our visit the resort was less than three years old, with just six cottage-style tree houses that sleep two (about $60 a night) and two larger family-size units (4+ people $100 a night) - all built by the owner 'Lee' a local and former architect.

Let me say here and now, that this place probably isn't for everyone. Think 'glamping' rather than five star resort territory. The cabins are basic, piled with old blankets and bargain basement mattresses, but cozy and complete with indoor plumbing and hot water (most of the time). Each tree house has unique features, such as outdoor showers or private balconies, some are ground level, others are in the treetops.

Bamboo House
The treetop houses are the most popular, but I can't recommend Bamboo House enough, it's ground level but has a private patio that backs onto a small stream and is very cozy - especially if you are visiting in the cooler winter months.

There is also a farm-like quality to the place and there are lots of animals about - dogs, chickens, piglets and cats. The owners do a terrific job of keeping the animals out of the eating areas and none of the animals are aggressive. A few of the more solicitous cats might try and find a warm spot with you at night but they quickly work out where they are welcome and where they are not.

Meals are simple but hearty Thai fare and there is a fridge full of cold Chang beer (the nearest market is 40km away, so if you're fussy or suffer allergies you need to let them know in advance).

The owners are helpful and friendly far beyond the call of duty and work really hard to get everyone in the tree house they've requested - we stayed three nights and ended up moving each night to try out new houses and accommodate others.  If you are going to be put over this, I'd recommend that you get over it ahead of time or find somewhere else to stay. The staff are helpful in moving your stuff and if you're dragging around massive suitcase full of high heels and handbags for every occasion- you've packed for the wrong vacation.



Once the sun goes down things wind down pretty quick. The area is replete with hiking trails and there are even a few bicycles free to use. Pack your hiking boots, load your Kindle up with reading material, kick back and enjoy. This is special spot.

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